What type of needle should I use for hand quilting?

Quilting needles are sometimes called Betweens. These are short needles with small round eyes. Typically, sizes 7, 8, 9 or 10 are used. The larger the number, the smaller the needle. Expert quilters often prefer smaller needles because they can make smaller stitches.

The purpose of the needle when hand quilting is to puncture the fabric and batting and carry the thread through the fabric. The needle creates an opening for the thread. If the needle is too small, there is more abrasion on the thread. If the quilting thread is showing signs of wear—fraying at eye or thread end— it may be that the needle is to small for the size of the thread, or that the fabric or batting is very dense. Using a larger needle can remedy the problem.

I’ve heard that I should only purchase ‘Z’ twist thread.
How do I know if it is Z twist?

All threads for the home sewing market are ‘Z’ twist threads. This is an industry standard, not just Coats & Clark.

Threads are constructed of two or more single strands, or plies, twisted together to form the sewing thread. The single plies are twisted in the S direction. When twisting the 2 or more plies together, the direction of the twist is to the left, or ‘Z’ twist. A ‘Z’ twist is used during ply twisting because most home sewing machines tend to twist the thread slightly in the ‘Z’ direction. If the thread had an ‘S’ twist, the machine action would tend to separate the plies, making them susceptible to snagging and abrasion. In addition, the hook in the bobbin case may not catch the thread properly resulting in skipped stitches and breakage. Different twist directions, ‘S’ in the single strands and ‘Z’ in the plied yarns, produce a thread which is balanced. This prevents tangling and produces maximum thread strength.

What does “random variegated” mean and how is it different from just “variegated”?

The colors in a variegated thread appear in approximately the same length and sequence throughout the spools. This can result in a striped or color-blocked pattern when stitched. For a random variegated thread, a special dyeing technique allows the colors in each pattern to vary in amount and sequence so the final project is one-of-a-kind. Colors used in this process can be tonal, in other words, the same color varying in hue from light to dark or completely different contrasting colors. Three to five colors can be used.

How do I know what size needle to use ?

According to long arm quilting expert Nancy Goldsworthy, the quickest way to determine if your needle is large enough for your chosen thread is to run a simple slide test. Take a loose needle and thread it with your favorite thread. Holding both ends of the thread, tip the thread to about a 45 degree angle. The thread should slide easily from side to side. If it doesn't move easily, try the next size bigger needle.

I'm afraid to change the tension from it's original settings on my longarm, but I'm getting some loops and breakage. I suspect I need to make some adjustments. Where do I start?

Nancy Goldsworthy recommends to first, check the path that the thread takes from the spool to your needle. Make sure it is not wrapped around anything it shouldn't be.

If you have loops on the back, chances are good that the top tension is too loose. Make sure that your tension disks (or rotary tension on the Gammill) is threaded correctly.

With the needle unthreaded, gently pull on your top thread. If there is too much drag, loosen your top tension about 1/4 turn. Stitch out a small test piece and check for loops / thread breaks. Adjust the tension about 1/4 of a turn and check your stitching. Continue adjusting the top tension, checking after each adjustment, until the stitch is correct.

If you are having top thread breakage, loosen top tension, reversing the directions above. Test after each adjustment, until stitch is correct.

Bobbin tension is important too. Learn to do the bobbin drop test after each thread change. Thread your bobbin case in the usual manner. Holding the thread only, Adjust the tension about 1/4 of a turn and check your stitching. Continue adjusting the top tension, checking after each adjustment, until the stitch is correct.

-Nancy Goldsworthy
author of Needles & Threads & Bobbins, Oh, My! A Quick Reference for Today’s Quilter

So far I have only used polyester thread on my long-arm but many of my customers are asking for cotton. Do I need to adjust my machine differently for cotton thread?

We asked Sandy King this question and this was her advice:

“You might have to adjust your tension for cotton thread depending on the type of polyester thread you were using. I usually keep my upper tension backed way off when using cotton thread. I also have the tension in my bobbin case very loose. You are working for the proper meld of the top and bottom threads without the top thread breaking or having the bobbin thread flat line on the back.”

Sandy King, Prodigy Machine Inc.

How can I tell what is causing my thread to break?

According to Dan Nolting, there are three common types of top thread breakage.

1. Stress Break
2. Clean Cut
3. Hook Break

Stress Break
If the thread looks like it was pulled apart, it most likely was. This is most often caused by too much tension or more tension than a particular thread can handle. You may need to loosen the tension a bit or skip some thread guides to relive some strain on the thread. Some people will use thread lubricants, but keep in mind that if the thread is weak, it may not hold up on the quilt.

A stress break can also be caused by the thread being caught somewhere on the machine. Be sure to check for this before you make too many changes.

Clean Cut
A clean-cut thread looks as if it were cut with a pair of scissors. A bur in the needle area most often causes this. A bur is a sharp edge that is usually caused by the needle striking another metal object. This will push some metal out causing a bur or sharp edge. As the thread passes over this bur it will be cut. Most burs can be removed with a fine sand paper or emery cloth. Try not to get any of the grit particles into the hook assembly, as this will cause premature wear.

Hook Break
A hook break is easy to determine. If you look at the thread break, you will see a few fibers hanging straight and the rest of the fibers will be bunched up a little higher on the thread. There are a few different reasons why this might happen. The hook point could be too far away from the needle causing the point to catch the outer layers of fiber instead of slipping completely under the thread and picking it up.

Sometimes you may get a bur on the hook point and this can also have the same result. Imagine trying to pick up a piece of rope with a shovel. Then imagine trying to pick up a piece of rope with a shovel with the point curled up. This is about the same effect. The bur on the hook point is caused by needle deflection. A few different things can cause this. Loose or worn needle bar bushings will allow the needle to bounce against the hook point. Moving the machine too fast can make the needle bump against the hook point. Also having the top tension too tight will pull the needle tight to the hook point.

Improper hook timing will have the same effect.
Most of the time a hook break is caused by needle deflection.

Always look at the thread break before you make any changes, this will save you lots of time and grief.

Dan Novak, Nolting Manufacturing, Inc.